Tienchi Martin-Liao: Notes from Dharamsala: On Meeting His Holiness, the Dalai Lama

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March 13, 2013

Tibetan settlements in India have fostered strong relations with the government under the Dalai Lama’s teachings. Can they be a guide for Tibetan-Chinese relations?

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Tienchi and the Dalai Lama

Tienchi Martin-Liao and the Dalai Lama in Dharmasala, India. Photo: Courtesy of the author.
It was a stormy day in Dharamsala; the monkeys were dangling on the pines and tightrope-walking on the power lines in front of the white bungalow. It was around noon.

We—myself, four Chinese writers, and two Tibetan companions from Europe—stood at the end of the visitor’s line outside of the house, waiting to see the Dalai Lama. A Tibetan couple in front of us was so exited, the woman trembled and murmured uncontrollably—it seemed like she could faint at any time.

After the security check, we proceeded into the anteroom. Two monks were preparing the hadas, which would be blessed and given to us by his Holiness.

Then he was standing there, at end of the short hallway: His Holiness the Dalai Lama. He smiled as he placed the hada around my neck and stretched out his warm hands toward me.

The Dalai Lama likes to meet with the Chinese who understand his “middle-way” approach, which is a wise strategy for promoting dialogue and negotiation with the Chinese regime.

But before I discuss this further, perhaps I should back up a little…

When I came to Dharamshala a decade ago it was a poor and isolated mountain village. Now, it seems to be a prosperous little town, filled with blowing horns, twittering birds, and raucous crowds. The narrow streets hardly have enough room to allow two cars to pass—not to mention that the holy cows, homeless dogs, and loaded donkeys are all considered pedestrians, adding to the busy traffic.

Indeed, this place is host to a funny conglomerate: Animals and human beings; Tibetans and Indians; monks, nuns, and tourists; traditional shops and internet cafés. Contradictory things co-exist harmoniously here.
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